So today I was off to see the Montserrat Mountain Range (about a one hour drive from Barcelona) and the famous Santa Maria de Montserrat Monastery, which is home to the Virgin of Montserrat, aka La Moreneta (the Black One) aka the Black Madonna.
I was picked up by Javi (pronounced Havi) at 7:45 a.m. and met up with a couple from Mauritius via South Africa, 3 sisters from New York via Barbados and a couple from San Francisco via Taiwan. (Apparently everyone in my group this morning moved from their homeland.)
Anyway, we were on the freeway out of Barcelona by 8:00 a.m. and were soon driving up into the Montserrat Mountain Range. Now the Santa Maria de Montserrat Monastery sits at 1,236 metres (4,055 ft) above sea level so we spent some time climbing.
We reached the parking area just after 9:00 a.m. and there were already a number of buses and cars in the car park. Now the Monastery is one of the most popular attractions in Barcelona so it was not surprising to see all the vehicles and in particular not surprising given it was a Sunday and Mass was beginning at 11:00 a.m.
Anyway, Javi dropped us off near the entrance to the Monastery grounds and instructed us to take a walk over to the viewing platform and to see the literally jaw dropping views before meeting up with him in 15 minutes near the cafeteria.
So with that I immediately headed over to the viewing area and as promised, the views were indeed spectacular. On one side was the gorgeous monastery complex and on the other were spectacular views of the Montserrat Mountain Range. And surprisingly, very few people were taking in the views.
So without a lot of people in my way, I spent a few minutes just gaping at the stunning scenery. Now fortunately, there was a map (albeit in Spanish) that helped me identify the scenery including the names of the peaks I could see as well as the buildings, which were tucked into the mountainside, including a small orange building hanging out over the mountain range that I learned was the Chapel of the Holy Grotto and another building peaking out of the greenery that was apparently the Capella de la Doloroso, aka the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows.
Once I had taken in the views (and pulled on my hoody … it was a tad chilly at 1,200 meters), I walked down the small hill to the cafeteria, grabbed a coffee and donut and met up with Jave and the rest of the group.
At this point, Jave gave us an overview of our next stop, the Basillica, which is home to the Black Madonna. Now legend has it that one night in 880 AD a group of shepherds saw a light coming out of a cave (which is now the site of the Chapel of the Holy Grotto) and inside they saw a sculpture of the Virgin Mary surrounded by angels. When the shepherds tried to move the statute, the statute grew heavier and heavier and ultimately, they decided the Virgin Mary did not want to be moved and instead chose to build a chapel around the Virgin Mary.
Now, the Black Madonna in the Basilica is sadly not the sculpture found in 880 and even sadder yet is there is no actual evidence the statute found in 880 even existed. Instead, the statute sitting in the Basilica is actually a Romanesque carving from the 1100s or 1200s. The statute depicts the Virgin Mary sitting with baby Jesus on her lap holding a sphere in her right hand, which has been interpreted as the universe – a symbol of power – while the child holds a pine cone – a symbol of eternal life and uses his other hand to flash the symbol of Christianity. The statute is made of wood and gold paint and is believed to be black due to a combination of candle smoke and iron paint that has oxidized over the years.
And as far as the monastery is concerned, the Benedictine monastery was founded in 1025 and today there is approximately 80 monks who live, work and study in the monastery. Over the years, the monastery has experienced attacks and destruction. In fact, the Basilica was first constructed in the 16th century, but had to be completely rebuilt in 1811, after being destroyed in the war with Napolean.
So with this background, we began the trek uphill and around a corner passing through an archway before reaching the front of the building housing the Basilica. From here, Jave had the guards open the roped off area for us permitting us to enter into the inner courtyard where we faced the massive façade of the Basilica.
Jave then took us inside, pointed to the front of the Basilica where the famous Madonna sat and told us where to meet him when we were done. I ended up taking a few pictures and wandered around before planting myself in the middle of the Basilica so that I could take a picture of the famous statute. Now, what I didn’t know, and what Jave failed to tell us, is that there is a que to get up close and personnel with the statute and as a result, there was an endless parade of tourists walking up a stairs case and stopping in front of the statute making it virtually impossible to take a picture without someone blocking the view of the Madonna from the ground floor of the Basilica. I must have stood there for 15 minutes and each time I thought I had a picture someone would walk in front of the statute.
However, patience finally paid off when there was a tiny break in the action and I was finally, finally, finally able to snap a photo. In fact I actually ended up with two: one quite good and the second OK. After the pictures, I left the Basilica and went to find Jave only to learn that I was the last of the group to leave the Basilica. Apparently, the group gave up trying to take the picture leaving only me to snap the winner.
Now at this point, we had a number of options to spend the last two hours of our tour. Take the funicular up to the top of the mountain for spectacular views; take a hike up the mountain in a different direction for spectacular views; take in the art gallery; or do nothing. I opted for the funicular and once I reached the very short line, I found all of the folks on my tour were simply standing in the line waiting to head up the mountain. Weird that they would waste all that time in line, but that’s just me I guess.
Anyway, two minutes after I arrived the funicular took us up the mountain for the six minute ride to the top. Once at the top, I walked along a pathway in one direction to take in some of the views or the Montserrat Mountain Range. Now, at this point we had been pretty lucky. There was a bit of fog around the mountains, but so far nothing to impair the spectacular views.
In fact, when I reversed direction and hiked up the path on the other side of the funicular, the sun actually came out making for even better views with the mountains glistening in the sunshine. I spent some time taking in the views to the valley as well as the limestone peaks before heading back down to the funicular.
By 10:40, I was back on the funicular and heading back to the Monastery. Now Mass was to begin at 11:00 and as I arrived back at the funicular station at the bottom, the bells from the Basilica began to ring out with a deep gong sound. In fact, the ringing continued for about 15 minutes.
At just after 11:00 I decided to wander back to the Basilica area and take some photos of the sculptures adoring the outside of the Basilica before heading back to the main area of the Monastery where I spent some time in the Monastery shop. And wouldn’t you know it. Just as I headed out the area near the Basilica, the fog rolled in and it started to rain making it impossible to see the surrounding mountains or much of the Monastery.
Anyway, once inside the Monastery shop (and out of the rain), I wandered around and ended up doing a tasting of four liqueurs they had on sale that are made in house by the monks. Two were not my cup of tea (the Aromatic – made with herbs and the Ratifia – made with herbs and nuts). However, the second two were spectacular, the Avellana – made with hazelnuts and the Crema Catalana – made with nuts and crème. Unfortunately, I am going to be travelling for another 6 1/2 weeks and did not want to haul around a large bottle of liquor. Oh well. I have the memories!
I also made a stop by the local market that was located outside the shop where nearby villagers had set up stands selling honey, meats, cheeses, nuts and breads. I tried a few cheeses and some breads and opted for a Fig Bread that tasted more like candy than bread. The upside was that it was the size of a large candy bar so easily packable.
From here, I wandered around for a bit before heading to our meeting point at 12:00. Once we were all assembled, Jave began the drive back to Barcelona, this time taking a bit of a different route that took us through the picturesque village of Monistrol. By just after 1:00, I was back at my hotel. (Oh and before I forget, Jave told me that the play I saw last night was a “Correfoc”, a fire run and parade featuring people dressed as devils (Diables) who dance and perform with fireworks and fire-breathing effigies. This tradition is a highlight of the La Merce festival where devils, dragons, and fire beasts emerge from a “Hell’s Gate” to parade through the streets, showering the crowds with sparks from fireworks and fiery torches. Good to know.)
Anyway, that about wraps it up from Barcelona. Tomorrow, I have a very early (7:27 a.m.) train to Madrid, where my private guide for the day will be picking me up to take me on a tour of Madrid.