So today I was off on a private tour to the Roman ruins of Italica, which are located about 10 km from Sevilla. Now Italica was the first Roman city established on the Iberian peninsula. It is believed that the city dates to 206 BC when it was founded by Roman general Scipio. However, by the 3rd century, Italica’s importance began to diminish when the nearby river shifted and Italica’s port was no longer usable. As a result, the city was eventually abandoned and forgotten until excavations began in the 19th century.
Anyway, my guide, Juan, met me at the tour office and we set off at 9:45 a.m. for Italica. By just after 10:00 a.m. we were pulling into Italica and once parked walked to the site of the ruins, which sit up on a bit of hill.
Once we made our way up the old Roman road, we passed over the Roman drains and lower wall that were over 2,000 years old.
As we walked up the slight hill, we passed by more small stone walls before reaching the Exedra building which is one of the largest buildings on site that has excavated to date. (Only 20% of the city has been excavated so far.). Now this area consisted of an approximately 4,000 square meter building constructed around a courtyard.
The building was likely used for meetings and banquets. There were communal latrines (with a lovely mosaic for folks to enjoy) as well as a very interesting mosaic floor that was made up of geometrical shapes. Now I have seen a LOT of Roman mosaics over my life, but I have never seen a mosaic made up of geometrical shapes. Usually mosaics are made up of small square tiles. VERY unusual.
We then passed the first of a series of houses with intricate mosaics and marble columns. The first up was the Casa del Planetario, a home with a mosaic dedicated to the planetary gods. This mosaic was in remarkable condition, although I wish they would place a cover over it or something to protect it from the elements.
After passing by the first house, we opted to continuing walking to the thermal baths, which was the largest area in Italica at 32,000 square feet. In fact, the area is so big that they have placed a viewing platform near the area so you can get a good idea of how large the baths were. Now the baths were not only a place for relaxation (think spa), but were also for social gatherings where citizens would get together to discuss philosophy, politics and the days news.
And the amazing thing about the baths was the highly advanced heating and water circulation systems that the Romans used, with the heating involving the circulation of hot air from a wood-fired furnace beneath raised floors which piped hot air in through wall flues and the water circulation involving gravity and aquaducts.
From here, we doubled back to check out some more Roman houses. So after passing the ruins of the bakery, we reached the House of Birds, one of the largest homes at the site, which featured a brilliant mosaic with birds from the area at the time.
The house also featured large public areas for entertaining as well as rooms used only in the summer time, including a room with a patio and fountain, and rooms for colder weather. And throughout this home there were gorgeous mosaics in each room.
From here, we climbed up another hill to take in the House of Demitrio de los Rios, which sadly has been looted over time so only walls and the outline of the home were visible.
We then passed the House of Hylas with another lovely mosaic before stopping at the House of Neptune, which has only been partially excavated, but featured a thermal area including a calderium (hot area) evidenced by brick pillars and a frigidarium with a nearby mosaic.
From here, we doubled back to take another look at the Exedra Building before walking back towards the entrance to the most important building at the site, the Roman Amphitheatre, which was built between 117 to 138 A.D. and was used for gladiator fights, putting people to death and comedic shows (to lighten the mood with the overzealous crowd).
The Amphitheatre had a capacity of 25,000 to 35,000 spectators (it is unclear of the exact number) and was shaped like an elliptical rather than a circle. The Amphitheatre had three levels of stands, of which the first level remains intact, the second partially intact, and the third completely in ruin.
We wandered through the entrance and past a temple room dedicated to the cult goddess Nemesis and even saw a footprint plaque outside the temple dedicated to Nemesis.
After passing the temple room, we entered the Amphitheatre floor area, and I was able to take in the size and condition of the structure. It was remarkably well preserved for having been ignored for centuries after the Romans abandoned the area in the 3rd century.
From here, we went through a doorway and under the Amphitheatre where I was able to see the numerous entrances into the buildings and stairwells leading up to the seating area. There was even a remarkably well preserved mosaic on one of the floors.
After walking through the hallway, we ended up coming out of the end of the building and were able to check out the outer walls at this end of the building before entering once again onto the ground floor before walking back the length of the Amphitheatre so I could get a closeup look at the animal pen area in the middle of the Amphitheatre. All in all, an incredibly impressive building.
So after the visit to Italica, we made a quick stop at the nearby San Isidoro del Campo Monastery, which was founded in 1301. Now, parts of the monastery have been restored, but sadly the bulk of the monastery is in a bit of a state of disrepair.
Nevertheless, the visit was quite interesting. The construction of the entrance was clearly influenced by Moorish architecture given the huge arch, colours and design. Once inside, we passed by the Second Chapel, which then led into the First Chapel.
After passing through the First Chapel, we entered the Cloister of the Dead, which apparently was the courtyard where the monks were brought to be buried. The Moorish design featured semi-circular arches, decorative murals and lots of symbolism. I thought this area was the prettiest of the entire Monastery.
We then passed through the sacristia where the head monk would prepare for the catholic service. And this room led to a Reserve Chapel that was filled with mosaics on the walls featuring everyday monastic life.
From here, we made a brief stop in the Heritage Document room that featured translations of the Bible from Latin and Hebrew into Spanish. Now this room would not have been particularly notable except for the unbelievable wooden ceiling with hand painted designs featuring flowers and angels and colourful designs. Gorgeous.
We then walked back around the other side of the Cloister of the Dead before reaching the dining hall aka Refectory which included a glorious mural on the wall of the last supper as well as an incredible arched ceiling.
The last room we visited was the Patio of the Evangelistas, which was filled with amazing frescos painted on the wall as well as Moorish arches and colourful brick patterns. The area was apparently used for meditation and reflection by the monks and included a garden patio for relaxation.
So with that, the trip to Italica was in the books. I was back at my hotel by just before 2:00 p.m. Tomorrow, I am off on a small group trip to the nearby White villages of Zarhana, Setenil, and Ronda. Then it is goodbye Seville and hello Merida and more Roman ruins.
